![]() Easiest way is just cut the same rafters slip them under and roll in place might need 2 ppl but its doable and then toe screw the rafters to the perlings you have 24 oc.the extra cost sucks but it will make a much sturdier roof. Now you could argue with them threaten with lawyer because they said it was fine but you will be dealing with them for most home projects so don't pass them off if possible they can make like shitty. while even if you signed a waiver of sorts they passed it and general rule with failure leading to injury is sue everyone and there would technically be grounds for it if they approved and passed something that doesn't measure ip to what codes are set. Usually why the require engineers on larger projects they are the ones who tell you your load factors but on smaller projects building departments have guidelines as to what will work for certain spans of lumber for the various uses. If they pass that structure and it doesn't comply with current building standards regardless of weather it slipped trough on initial approval they would be assuming responsibility because the building department is there to prevent things being built that can fail under normal calculated loads that are set for every state and region based on wind, weather, soil so forth. Not sure what your municipality requires but in NY you can sign a waver to do it yourself without other insurance. I'll get some pictures to you later.You may have signed a formal taking liability for the building if you are the homeowner, as businesses have to include insurance and put comp coverage that extends to municipality during construction. Lowes had the best price for galvanized roofing screws with a rubber washer: The advantage of wiggle wood is you can put the screw at the top of the wave on the corrugation which will reduce leaks. Their picture is terrible so this is a picture from Home Depot : I am using 2'x12' galvanized metal corrugated roofing panels from Home Depot. I priced materials and I am going with a combination from Lowes and Home Depot. I put the joists 4' OC with perpendicular blocking spaced 2' OC. We burned about 3 1/2 last year (first year in house) so I'll have 2 years stored with a little margin. ![]() If I stack 6' high I'll have 9 cords under cover. My shed will have a covered area that is 24'x8' with a 2' overhang for a 28'x12' roof. If this ever happen under a woodshed it wouldn't be a big deal. Under the right moist and cool weather conditions I have seen water condensate on the bottom of bare metal roofing and watched it rain under the roof as it warmed up and the sun hit the metal roof. ,ĮDIT For anything but a woodshed I would still put felt paper or some membrane on the strapping directly under the metal. It makes it a lot easier to put the screws in once you get the sheets up on the roof. Just make sure the metal roofing is all stacked exactly on top of each other figure out exactly where the screw holes need to be to line up with the strapping and drill the holes through all the sheets at once. One trick you can use for helping the metal roofing go on way faster and easier is to pre-drill the screw holes while the metal roofing is still in a stack. You'll save some $$$ using 1x4s over 2x4s. I can't see any advantage to using 2x4s for strapping unless your rafters are further apart then 24". For metal roofing rafters 24" on center with 1x4 strapping (purlins) is pretty standard around here, with the strapping 16" on center.
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